Tarp Types and Choosing the Right Size
Flatbed tarps come in three main types: lumber tarps, steel tarps, and smoke tarps (also called nose tarps). Lumber tarps are the largest, typically 24x27 feet or 20x28 feet, with a 4-6 foot drop on the sides and a front flap that covers the headboard area. They are designed for tall, rectangular loads like lumber stacks, building materials, and boxed freight. Steel tarps are smaller (16x20 or 16x24 feet), lighter weight, and designed for low-profile loads like steel coils, sheet metal, and machinery. Smoke tarps cover just the front of the load to prevent road grime and diesel soot from contaminating the freight.
Choosing the right tarp size depends on your load dimensions plus overhang. Measure your load's length, width, and height, then add at least 2 feet of overhang on all sides. A load that is 8 feet wide, 6 feet tall, and 20 feet long needs a tarp that covers 12 feet of width (8 + 2 overhang per side), 10 feet of height-plus-overhang drop on each side, and 24 feet of length. A 24x27 lumber tarp handles this easily. Under-sized tarps are the most common tarping mistake — they flap in the wind, expose cargo, and look unprofessional.
Invest in quality tarps. A heavy-duty 18-oz vinyl tarp costs $300-$600 and lasts 2-3 years of regular use. A cheap 14-oz tarp costs $150-$250 but tears after a few months of highway wind abuse. The cost difference per load is pennies — a tarp that shreds on I-80 at 65 mph not only fails to protect the freight but creates a hazard for other vehicles and costs you a replacement tarp plus the time to re-tarp at the next safe stop.
Step-by-Step Tarping Technique
Tarping a flatbed load is physically demanding work — a wet lumber tarp can weigh 80-120 pounds, and you are handling it on top of a load 8-10 feet off the ground. Work safely: wear gloves to protect your hands from the tarp's D-rings and sharp cargo edges, use a sturdy ladder (never climb the trailer sides), and if possible, tarp during calm wind conditions. High wind makes tarping dangerous and nearly impossible solo.
Start by unrolling the tarp on the ground next to the load (driver side, away from traffic). Fold the tarp in half lengthwise so you can throw it over the load in one motion. Climb to the top of the load, pull the folded tarp up, and drape it over the top centered on the load. Unfold the tarp so it falls evenly on both sides. The front flap should cover the headboard and hang at least 2 feet over the front of the load.
Work from front to back, securing the tarp with bungee straps or tarp hooks through the D-rings to the trailer's rub rail or stake pockets. Pull the tarp tight at each D-ring before securing — loose tarp flaps in the wind and will eventually tear, regardless of the tarp quality. Tuck excess material neatly under the bottom edge of the load, and use additional bungees to secure any loose fabric. The finished result should be smooth and tight with no loose flaps, exposed cargo, or gaps where rain can enter.
Protecting Your Tarp at Highway Speeds
Highway wind is the number one tarp destroyer. At 65 mph, the wind pressure on a tarped load is enormous — a loose section of tarp acts like a sail, catching wind that can tear the tarp, pull D-rings out of the tarp fabric, or rip bungee straps off the rub rail. The difference between a tarp that survives a 1,000-mile haul and one that shreds after 200 miles is entirely about how tight and smooth you made it during installation.
The critical areas for wind protection are the front leading edge and any gaps between the tarp and the load. The front of the tarp takes the most wind pressure because it is the first surface the airflow hits. Secure the front flap with multiple bungees spaced no more than 12 inches apart, and tuck the leading edge tightly under the load or against the headboard. If the front flap flutters, it will progressively work loose and eventually tear.
For loads with irregular shapes (machinery, equipment, mixed-size items), use tarp filler or void-fill (old tires, foam blocks, cardboard) to create a smoother profile under the tarp. Every dip and gap in the load profile creates a pocket where wind can get under the tarp and lift it. Filling these voids with soft material creates a more aerodynamic shape and reduces the wind forces trying to tear your tarp off. It takes 10 extra minutes and saves you from re-tarping on the shoulder of I-90 in a 30-mph crosswind.
Pro Tips from Experienced Flatbedders
Every experienced flatbedder has learned tarping lessons the hard way. Here are the tips that save time, frustration, and money. First, dry your tarps before folding them for storage. A wet tarp stored folded will develop mold and mildew within days, weakening the fabric and creating a health hazard. If you cannot dry the tarp fully, at least fold it loosely and re-spread it at your next opportunity.
Second, invest in a tarp tool — a 4-6 foot pole with a hook on the end that lets you reach D-rings and tarp edges from the ground or from a safer position on the load. Tarp tools cost $30-$50 and dramatically reduce the amount of climbing and reaching required. They also let you secure the far side of the tarp without walking around to the passenger side of the truck and climbing up again.
Third, carry extra bungee straps — at least 20 more than you think you need. Bungees wear out, get lost, and break at the worst times. Having a surplus means you can secure every D-ring properly without skipping any. Fourth, check your tarp at every stop for the first 200 miles of a trip. New tarps and first-time loads are the most likely to develop issues as the tarp settles and the freight shifts during initial transit. A 2-minute visual inspection at each fuel stop catches a flapping corner before it becomes a torn tarp. Fifth, if you are tarping in the rain, accept that you and everything around you will be wet and miserable — wear waterproof gear and focus on getting the tarp secure quickly rather than perfectly.
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